A decade ago, for people who care about food, Copenhagen was synonymous with Noma. The number 1 restaurant on the World’s 50 Best became a pilgrimage destination for food lovers who managed to snag reservations precisely two months ahead, and many of whom traveled long distances. But Noma and its chef, René Redzepi, also reinvented fine dining, with its relentless focus on hyperlocal, hyperseasonal ingredients, from Arctic seafood to fermented carrots. What’s interesting about Noma now, all these years on, is the way that it has continued to innovate, even adapting to covid-times (when people weren’t hopping on planes for lunch) by turning into a burger joint.